In the heart of downtown, at the corner of Central Avenue and Adams Street, the California-based chain The Counter has moved in, bringing promises of custom built burgers, tailored to perfection.
I have been anticipating the opening of this restaurant since construction began, mainly because there is no meal I love more than a juicy hamburger and a large helping of french fries. On our stroll over to The Counter, my friends and I were expecting to have a pretty delicious lunch.
The first thing I noticed was our enthusiastic host, who stepped outside and opened the door for us as soon as he saw us coming up the steps. As he sat us at our table, he thoroughly explained how they do things at The Counter. His smile and obvious love for his job were infectious and set the scene for a fun lunch.
The building, which had been vacant since the closing of Baja Fresh in 2013, was renovated for the new business. This paid off, as the light, airy and modern atmosphere makes you feel right at home, even as the light rail rushes by and the city buzzes around you. The interior of the restaurant was very clean, as was the shaded patio area.
I thought maybe our host was just a super friendly guy, but our waitress was equally enthusiastic. Her excitement was contagious, and she provided our table with her personal recommendations and answered our onslaught of questions about the endless variety of toppings.
It is always a bummer when you flip open the menu and see only three or four options for appetizers. That isn’t a problem guests will have at The Counter, with a stocked menu that seemingly has something for everyone. Veggie lovers can order appetizers like the grilled vegetable skewers ($7.00) or Seasonal Grilled Corn ($4.50), while potato fanatics like myself can get started with Chili Cheese Fries ($9.00) or Loaded Spuds ($8.50). Depending on which you choose, the starters can be a little pricey, considering there are still entrees to order.
Families will appreciate the inexpensive kids menu, as well as the fun beverage options, like the floats, shakes and malts ($5.50-$6.50). There is a selection of sandwiches and salads, as well as expert builds, which are burgers that are already crafted with toppings.
Now time for the real fun. Tucked into the back of each menu binder is a “build your own burger” form. At first glance, the countless possibilities are overwhelming, and the paper looks suspiciously like a multiple choice test. But it’s a test your taste buds will thank you for taking, as the end result is a meal completely tailored to you.
First, patrons select the size (1/3 lb ($9.50), 1/2 lb ($12) or 1 lb($18)) and type of meat (beef, chicken breast, organic bison, turkey, vegan veggie or tuna). Then there is the tough decision of cheese (there are 16 options) and sauce (there are 26 options). Then comes the true challenge, deciding on the toppings that will make the cut. There are 36 regular toppings to choose from, some of the most unique being green beans, fresh grilled pineapple and hard-boiled eggs. You can add premium toppings as well for an additional $1.25 each. This includes applewood-smoked bacon, parmesan fries, and chili. Lastly, guests can choose from seven different buns, and add side dishes. Our waitress looked over our sheets to confirm our orders, and then rushed back to the kitchen. It was so much more simple than asking to “hold the tomato” or “put the sauce on the side.”
While our rumbling stomachs made it seem like forever, in reality we waited for under 20 minutes and we were out of the restaurant within an hour because of the quick and efficient service. When our waitress rounded the corner of the kitchen and made a beeline for our table, I knew we were in for a treat. In the center of my plate was a hamburger bursting with color and flavor — thanks to my selection of dill pickles, onion confit, green beans, roasted Anaheim peppers, bacon and a sunny side up egg. The shoestring french fries, slightly seasoned and crunchy, were almost as mouthwatering as the hamburger itself.
While the combination of toppings was odd, it tasted anything but. It seemed like each bite got better, more juicy and more delicious. The onions and peppers were grilled to perfection, and the crunch of the bacon melded perfectly with the green beans. And even though the toppings were piled high, my hamburger didn’t fall apart in my hands and I was able to devour the entire thing without making a complete mess.
By the end of the meal, I knew I had found my new favorite restaurant in downtown Phoenix. The only downside was the pricing. The additional charges come in when you order extra cheese, sauce or the premium toppings. None of the entrees come with sides. Instead you can order shoestring fries, onion strings, chili or vegetables for an additional $3.00. Throw in a beverage or appetizers, and a quick lunch can easily become a $30 meal.
The Counter is open Monday-Saturday 11 a.m.-9 p.m. and Sunday 11 a.m.-8 p.m.
Location: 50 N Central Ave. Phoenix, AZ 85004
Star rating (0-5): ★★★★ 1/2
Contact the reporter at rbouley@asu.edu.
