Photos by Evie Carpenter
Grade: B-
Bliss/reBar, located in downtown Phoenix’s Roosevelt Row, is a mish-mash of tastes, cultures and styles missing a cohesive theme.
Tropical doesn’t seem like the right label, but the food has a light, satisfying flavor that’s somewhat reflected in the decor — plastic green lanterns hang from the ceiling and colorful paintings adorn the brick walls in the house-turned-restaurant. But the music, a strange combination of club music and 90s soft rock, doesn’t do much for the atmosphere.
However, Bliss/reBar’s pretzel bread — one of the most popular items on the menu — is an important bonus. The soft texture and rich flavor make it a solid choice for an appetizer, with mustard, hot white-cheddar cheese and tomato jam.
The pretzel bread also tops off the restaurant’s assortment of burgers, one of which I had for a late lunch. I chose the turkey burger, and it was much juicier than I expected, which was a plus. The negative part was the apple coleslaw, a purple cabbage mixture that overwhelmed the burger. Too much liquid without enough substance made it hard to eat. But after I picked the sandwich apart, I could really taste the delicious pretzel bread.
My companion chose the beef, chicken and shrimp soft tacos, saying the beef was a standout option. This time, however, she was disappointed by beef that was too dry. On the upside, the waiter informed us that they had recently switched from flour to corn tortillas, which are a healthier option.
The entrees come with a side salad, which isn’t listed on the menu but is a nice complement to a heavier meal with its light dressing and thinly sliced carrots and cabbage. I ordered French fries on my second visit to Bliss/reBar, even though I knew it would come with a salad. Though filling, they were a great decision — “shoestring” thin, crispy and flavorful. I tried both the Parmesan and the salt and pepper varieties. The Parmesan came with a tomato Ragu sauce on the side, but the waiter gave me ketchup “because most people ask for it anyway,” he said. My only complaint was that they weren’t always fried completely, with some soggier than others.
I thoroughly enjoyed a grilled eggplant sandwich on my return trip. The eggplant packed a flavorful punch, and the smooth goat cream cheese and sweet tomato jam added a slight tang. Like the turkey burger, it was a little over-saturated and drippy, and the sandwich was packed and hard to hold.
Bliss/reBar is a convenient option for Downtown students — similar to the likes Switch and Fez — but it lacks that extra something to make it stand out. If you go, pay less attention to the music and lack of themed décor and more attention to the friendly service, drinks and food — especially the pretzel bread.
Contact the critic at ssteffan@asu.edu
