Grade: B
I’ve been scouring the local food scene lately, searching for the best places to take my siblings when they visit Phoenix for the first time. They’ve never even seen real mountains, so I have an introductory list of must-see places and must-eat dishes.
Brick, the pizza, wine and cheese bar that opened Sept. 5, almost made the cut.
Its trendy interior contrasts with many of the other businesses in the Arizona Center.
Re-mixes of indie rock songs played on a turntable as the restaurant began to fill with customers later in the evening. The lights were dimmed, accenting the wavy glass light fixture behind the bar.
Brick is open until 10 p.m. on weeknights and midnight on Fridays and Saturdays, which may set a record in Phoenix.
The pesto stuffed artichokes contend for the title of downtown’s best appetizer. Served with a “green goddess” avocado and onion ranch dip, this baked and flash-fried snack was my favorite part of the meal.
As an entrée, I decided on the chicken pesto pizza with artichokes, feta and sun-dried tomatoes.
The crust was thin but not burnt, and it had exactly the right amount of feta. Add the right amount of feta to anything and you will be happy.
My companion was kind enough to give me a few bites of her ahi tuna burger and I didn’t want to give it back.
It was made with fresh ginger, shallots, green onions, ponzu sauce (a sweet and sour sauce that frequents Japanese dishes) and wasabi aioli. That’s right — a burger with wasabi. The bun was bakery-quality soft bread.
The pumpkin crème brulée finished the meal with class. It was perfectly crispy on top and came with vanilla ice cream topped with strawberries.
The food made me feel like a wealthy man, which is what I would have to be to continue ordering desserts there. Frugal customers can get by at Brick with $15 each, but I wouldn’t classify it as affordable on a college budget.
The menu’s only weakness is its non-alcoholic drinks.
Students under 21 should try the hibiscus iced tea, even though it sounds more interesting than it really is. It’s too sugary and tastes like it comes from a machine.
I was blown away by the food, atmosphere and convenience, but Brick lacks the X factor that makes some restaurants integral parts of a city’s culture.
Just look at Hanny’s — half the nightlife downtown goes through its doors on weekends, plus it has the history and architecture to matter to Phoenix’s culture.
Brick has a similar menu and price range, but still doesn’t warrant much attention.
For pizza lovers, it could be revolutionary because it beats Z Pizza in taste and proximity to the downtown campus, even though it’s more expensive. For students looking for a light lunch after class, an appetizer or grilled cheese could be the best option near campus.
I won’t insist on introducing my family to Hanny’s little brother, but Brick is one of the most convenient places for students to get top-notch food.
Contact the reporter at john.l.fitzpatrick@asu.edu
