The saying “less is more” perfectly exemplifies the DCM Burger Bar, a new joint that opened last Saturday in the DeSoto Central Market on Central Avenue and Roosevelt Street.
I entered the market from the patio area into a wide space with art-deco furniture and green-and-brown concrete cut and polished to look like tile. Empty and unfinished stalls lined the right of the market, while the left side was buzzing as businesses like Radish, Adobo Dragon and DCM Burger Bar finished preparations before opening at 11 a.m. At the time, it was just before 11, and the only business open was an indoor coffee shop.
Once the DCM Burger Bar opened, we picked from the 12 options available: nine burgers, cheese curds, standard french fries and cucumber slices.
After mulling over the menu for far too long, I got The Little Tyke ($7.00) and a side of the Kennebec french fries ($4.00). My father, who ate with me, simply got a plain black-bean veggie burger, with no toppings, which was charged as a DeSoto Burger ($9.00). Though it would have been nice to try another burger from the menu, I got to try a bit of the veggie burger, in addition to the standard beef patty with the sliders.
We sat down at one of the tables near the bar, where the natural light from the huge windows illuminated the entire space.
The bean burger came wrapped in paper with the side of fries in a separate container. The patty was flavorful: something that one could eat without any sauce or toppings. However, adding those things would definitely have elevated it to the next level. Though it was solid as a plain black-bean patty, I wish there had been a little less bun and some sort of topping to bring it from “good burger” to “really good burger.”
The Little Tyke came with three sliders and a side of pickles that appeared to be more like briny cucumber slices. A spread of mustard and ketchup and small pretzel buns topped the beef patties.
I found this to be a nice combination: the bitterness of the mustard balanced nicely with the acidity of the ketchup, and both cut the buttery, salty bun and rich, meaty flavors of the beef. I found the pickles to be nicely brined and sweet.
While everything else was solid and worth the money I spent, the fries were the disappointing part of the lunch for me.
They were standard, regular potato fries. With a sprinkle of salt. They were nice fries, but there were few that were perfectly crispy or flavorful enough to leave much of an impression. They needed condiments to be something, to have an impact on me as a diner. Without anything but salt, they were just sometimes crispy, mostly floppy, squishy potatoes.
Overall, the meal was pleasant. For just under $22, I got a plain bean burger, an order of sliders and fries to feed two people. If I came again, I would possibly even get the bean burger, with toppings, because that would be great. I would probably try the cheese curds on my next visit because the fries were so lackluster.
The DeSoto Market is transit-friendly with its proximity to the light rail, but for those who drive, there is free parking right behind the Roosevelt Community Church. In this reviewer’s opinion, it looks like it could become a budding downtown spot for office workers and college students alike, with decent prices and good burgers.
Star rating (0-5): ★★★★
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