Grade: B+
Mexican food can be somewhat of a cliché in downtown Phoenix. ASU students from out-of-state often expect to find the perfect spice or burrito to satisfy their hunger but are disappointed by the realities, with little more than fast-food tacos and an occasional overpriced dinner made by gringos, for gringos. Then there’s La Tolteca.
Easily missed from the road, the drab brown building comes to life upon stepping through its doors. Pink, green and yellow walls, mariachi music, sombreros and the scent of grilling meat welcome you in to the hustle and bustle.
La Tolteca, named for an ancient tribe in Mexico, is open from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. every day except Sunday, when it closes at 7 p.m. It serves as a restaurant, grocery store, meat market, bakery and cake shop.
After ordering a combination meal of carnitas (pork) tamales with rice and beans, I settled into one of a handful of small tables lined snugly alongside the bakery. A fresh selection of conchas, churros and pasteles tres leches teased me as I waited patiently for my food.
While not the newest or the shiniest restaurant around town, the cracks in the wall and the home-made dishes granted all the familiarity of my grandma’s kitchen. The piping hot plate of tamales drenched in salsa roja and cheese gratings might not have been the spiciest or the most extravagant, but it was certainly comfort food. The corn melted in my mouth. Guests should also be sure to try the store’s freshly-baked sweet breads, if their stomach can handle it after the hearty portions.
Also on offer, a variety of juices and agua de horchata.
The experience rivaled my past trips to Carolina’s, another local favorite–though at a higher price tag. A combination meal at La Tolteca costs $7, not including a drink.
The service seemed to be a side effect of the casual atmosphere. The bilingual staff might give you the wrong side orders (as they did with my eating companion, who was given guacamole and lettuce, rather than rice and beans, with his combo), but their laid-back approach not only solved the problem, it seemed as if we were valued members of the family, or at least friends.
Just a stone’s throw from the Downtown campus, La Tolteca is located near North 12th Street on East Van Buren Street and is certainly one of Phoenix’s hidden secrets.
Contact the reporter at vpelham@asu.edu
